24 April 2013

Outlining Your House in RGB Lights - Detailed Design Guide (Updated for 2026)

Updated September 2026. We rewrote this guide around the pixels, mounting and controllers we recommend today. The original 2013 version was built around pixel strip and hardware that has since been replaced.

When you're planning a Christmas display, it's easy to focus on everything going in the yard. But the biggest prop is already there: your house. Outline it, and the house becomes part of the sequence, framing everything you've built in front of it.

Vineyards Lights from Meridian, ID, with the rooflines, peaks and garage outlined in pixels

Vineyards Lights, Meridian, ID. The rooflines, peaks and garage all become part of the show.

If you want the big picture first (why a mounting system matters and how to pick between seasonal and permanent), start with our house outline primer. This post is the step-by-step design: how to measure, how many pixels you need, how to power them and where the controller goes.

Would you rather have us do the math? Fill out our project design form and we'll send you instructions for sending us one photo of your house and your measurements. We'll put together a recommendation and a complete quote with the controller, mounting, hardware and accessories for your project.

Step 1: Start with a photo

Go outside and take a photo of your house from where your audience will see it, usually the street. You'll sketch your design on this photo and use it to record measurements, where cables will run and where the controller and power supplies will go.

We'll use Nathanial R.'s house as our example throughout. It has 19 separate rooflines, so it's a good example of how a house with complex roof lines can be handled.

Example house photographed from the street before designing a pixel outline

Step 2: Measure every run

Get out the ladder and tape measure and record the exact length of every section you want to outline. Write each one on the photo.

Example house with the length of each roofline section written on the photo

Accuracy matters. Every foot you miss is another 4 pixels at 3 inch spacing, which changes your pixel count, your power budget and possibly how many controller outputs you need.

Step 3: Choose seasonal or permanent mounting

Across a whole house, mounting pixels one at a time means a lot of clips, a lot of alignment and a lot of visible black wire. A mounting system lets you build the outline in sections that hold their spacing and aim, snap into a few clips and come down as a unit for repairs.

Pixel Pipe seasonal mounting pipe next to PixaTrack permanent mounting track in white and brown

Want it to come down after Christmas? Use Pixel Pipe. Each aluminum pipe is 7.3 feet long with 88 holes on 1 inch centers, sized for standard 12mm bullet pixel nodes. It's available in black, white or mill-finish grey, mounts with clear, UV-resistant clips that can stay on the house year-round, and rotates in its clips so you can aim the pixels toward your viewing area. Couplers, corners and tees let you follow the roofline.

Want it to stay up? Use PixaTrack. Each track is 6.66 feet long with 80 holes on 1 inch centers and takes 12mm bullet or square-neck nodes. It fully encloses the wiring to protect it from UV and animals, comes in off-white or brown to blend with the house, and is available with front-facing or side/down-facing holes.

Both come as samples, so you can hold one up against your house before you decide.

Step 4: Pick your spacing and count your pixels

Because both systems are drilled on 1 inch centers, you can space pixels at 1, 2, 3 inches or more by skipping holes. Two things set how far apart you can go:

  • The wire length between nodes on the pixel string. Our 100-count 12mm node strings reach up to about 3.4 inches between nodes. For wider spacing, our 6 inch strings reach up to about 6.8 inches.
  • The look you want. Closer spacing reads as a solid line and gives you more resolution for effects. Wider spacing costs less and gives a more classic bulb-by-bulb look.

The math is simple:

Pixels = run length in inches ÷ spacing in inches
DMX channels = pixels × 3

For Nathanial's house we grouped the 19 measured sections into four continuous runs and used 3 inch spacing:

RunLengthPixels (3" spacing)DMX channelsWatts at full white
Garage front26 ft10431257
Garage, over the doors34 ft13640875
Front of house, upper53 ft212636117
Front of house, lower31 ft12437268
Total144 ft5761,728317

At 170 pixels per DMX universe, 576 pixels needs 4 universes. Any current E1.31 pixel controller handles that over a single network cable.

Step 5: Plan your power

Our 12v, 12mm nodes draw about 0.55 watts each at full white (45 milliamps). That's where the watts column above comes from: 576 pixels × 0.55 W = about 317 watts, or roughly 26 amps at 12 volts. Size your power supplies with headroom above that number, since draw varies with temperature, wiring and supply voltage.

The second question is how far the power can travel. As power runs down a string, voltage drops through the LEDs and the wire itself. Our 100-count node strings are designed to run the full 100 nodes with power fed at the start. Past that, plan to inject power. Three of the four runs above are over 100 pixels, so each would get power injection partway along, or be split into two shorter runs fed from separate outputs.

Diagram of power injection partway along a pixel run

To inject, run heavier-gauge wire (14 AWG is a good start) from the power supply to the injection point and connect it to the power and ground of the string there. The data passes straight through, since each pixel regenerates it. See our guide to wire selection for sizing the injection wire.

Test before it goes on the house. Build a section, set it to full white for 15 to 30 minutes and measure the voltage at the controller output and at the last pixel with a multimeter. A drop of 10 to 20% is usually fine. Much more than that and you'll see dimming or color shift at the end of the run, or random flicker if the voltage falls below what the pixel chips need. Finding that on the ground is a lot easier than finding it on the roof.

Step 6: Place the controller

Example house showing where each continuous pixel run starts and ends

Look at your photo for where runs start and end. Places where two runs meet, like a garage corner or the peak over a front door, are natural spots to feed two outputs from one location. Current pixel controllers and sequencing software let you reverse a run's direction, so a run can start at either end.

The data signal from a pixel controller output only travels a limited distance to the first pixel, so you have two basic layouts:

  • One central controller. An AlphaPix Classic with 4 or 16 outputs, placed somewhere central and close to the runs. It keeps everything in one enclosure, and spare outputs can drive other props in the yard.
  • A controller plus long-range receivers. With a Flex system, the controller can sit in the garage and small long-range receivers go near the roofline where the runs start. This is the better fit for large houses, runs that start far apart, or when you want the main controller out of sight.

For Nathanial's four runs and about 317 watts, a single 4-output controller placed near the garage corner would handle the whole outline. Adding props later, or splitting the long runs, is where a 16-output controller or a Flex system with receivers starts to make sense. Our Controller Selection Wizard walks you through the options.

Step 7: Build and test on the ground

One of the biggest advantages of Pixel Pipe and PixaTrack is that you can build each section on the ground, plug it in and test it before it goes up. With connectors between sections, a problem later means unplugging one section, fixing it in the garage and putting it back without disturbing your spacing. With a seasonal install, the sections come down as a unit and go back up next year exactly as they were.

Watch the full process

Our house outline video walks through planning and building an outline with Pixel Pipe and PixaTrack from start to finish:

Let us put it together for you

You don't have to work out every part of the system yourself. Fill out our project design form and we'll send you instructions for sending one photo of your house and your measurements. We'll look at what you're planning and put together a recommendation and a complete quote with the controller, mounting, hardware and accessories you'll need.

Want to see the mounting in person first? Pixel Pipe and PixaTrack samples let you compare colors against your house before choosing a system.

HolidayCoro.com

45 comments:

  1. Awesome post David. I am sure I will have to read this article numerous times this summer to absorb all of the information. This is exactly what I am trying to convert to this year.

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  2. Excellent post. That is exactly what I was needing to know. Thanks

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  3. AWESOME, thanks for taking the time to publish this.

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  4. David
    As always, a plethora of good information and logical step-by-step planning considerations. I'm at the point of determining exactly how to mount the 72 sections of 5050 dumb strips on the house (which includes outlining all facia, doors and windows - 300 ft total) and I'd like to do this such that it's removeable for off-season storage. I saw a brief mention in the article about "mounting substrate" costs, but no further details. Any thoughts on the best way to do this? Since aluminum LED strip extrusion (with snap-on diffusers) seem to be running about $10/foot, I'd like your opinion on the solution I'm contemplating. Menards and Home Depot sell metal square-shaped conduit (about 1/2" x 1/2" x 10') for between $8-$10/strip. It's made by "Wiremold" (http://www.menards.com/main/p-2285224-c-9801.htm). The 5050 strips I have are approx 10mm in width and came with an adhesive backing, so my though was to cut conduit to the length needed for each segment (e.g. a 4' x 4' window needs four 4' pieces), then (same example) create a frame by using 90 degree 2" metal corner braces. I'd then attach the 5050 strip on top of the conduit (with adhesive on the stip) then run my 18/4 alarm wire from each strip through the conduit out to the controller. Each frame, facia segment. etc could then be attached to the house with thier wires hidden in the conduitand be removed from the house for off-season without too much difficulty. Thoughts?

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    1. There is not specific "standard" for any waterproof housing for controllers as the method used to mount them and the number and type of controllers and power supplies will vary by installation.

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  5. Thanks for the Plethora of info. It's quite overwhelming, Im not understanding exactly how you run the power. What I'm getting is you would just simply run wire from the 350w PS to your strips. Or am Im still not getting it? The other is can you explain the whats and how's of these "ghost/null pixels", I don't understand them? Thanks again.

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    1. Sure - you can run the power directly to the pixels but you will have to send power to the controller for it to work. The reason people run power "through" the controller is the ease of setup since you already have to have a ground and data for the pixels - so it is just easier to wire up. Power injection would be directly from the PSU to the pixels. A null pixel is simply just a pixel that exists to repeat data from one pixel to another pixel due to the distance limits in most pixels (often 15-20ft between pixels).

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  6. David,

    Noob here. Thanks for the detailed writeup. I have a few questions.

    1. Why did you choose a light strip with 3 LEDs per pixel instead of 1 LED per pixel? It seems less granular that way. Was that to keep the pixel count down? Is this typical with regard to house outlining?

    2. Since I'm new I need to get some items and start practicing now. Most of the items on your site say that they won't ship until May. Where can I get my hands on products now so I can get a head start?

    3. I suspect that the software will be the hardest part. I want to only start with outlining the house and not have any trees, candy canes, etc. Is there some "stock" set of sequences for a house outline?

    4. Do I need to keep my PC connected for the show to work? Can I put the sequencing on a Raspberry Pie? Or do I just download the sequencing to the controller and it runs on its own?

    Thanks for your help.

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  7. 1 - Density of pixels. 70% of house outlines are 30/10 because it is a good mix of size for most viewing distances. If you get pixels too close, say a red, green, red, green and view them from a distance, they color mix. With 30/10 the pixel is 4" wide so mixing isn't an issue in nearly all cases. Additionally 30/30 is hell to work with because of the buck converters since you don't have three LEDs in series - cutting it becomes a major pain and we never recommend it (30/30 or 60/60) for any house outline.

    2 - You are looking at pre-sale items, which ship in May, many of those items can also be purchased for shipping now. There is a link in each of those items back to the currently shipping product.

    3 - No, there is no stock outline because each outline is 100% unique. Don't worry - it isn't as hard as you think!

    4 - Start by doing your sequences on a PC. Once you have that mastered and you feel you have the skills to build a Pi, go for it. It won't be a cake walk though.

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  8. Wow, found this really, really useful..Thank you!!
    I am in stage of planning my design now and have used your spreadsheet to find out I would need a total of 178 feet of pixel strip to outline house and windows and using the 30/10 strip this would be 1650 DMX channels.

    I am also looking to add 4 of your singing Christmas trees to the display and possibly add some mini trees. The piece that is confusing me at the moment, is wether i would need one controller for the pixel strips, singing trees and any mini trees, or separate ones for each? Also, I am yet to even venture in to the sequencing itself, I was looking and can see there are pre-sequenced songs available for singing xmas trees, and also for outlines - but not sure on how easy/complex it is to join the 2?
    Thanks
    John

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  9. Hi,
    Very, very helpful article have read it many times over already!!
    I am finalising my list for a pre-order but have a couple of questions if you don't mind?
    So,I have used the spreadsheet linked to above and for my house outline and window outlines I will need 178ft of 30/10 strip requiring 1650 DMX channels.
    I would also like to get 4 singing Xmas trees, and build some mini trees.

    Question is, do all components have to run off same controller, i.e the singing trees, outline and any mini trees?
    How do I determine the number of DMX channels for the singing trees and add to the spreadsheet to get my totals?
    I have not looked in depth at the sequencing yet, but see there are some ready made song sequences both for the singing trees and the outline, can these be combined? If so is it relatively easy?

    Final question (sorry) If i purchase the 178ft of 30/10 smart pixels, do I need to run as 1650 DMX channels, or can I dumb it down to start with and group the pixels in bigger sections to limit the amount of sequencing? Do the strips come with standard chase type sequences that can be called to simplify the programming?
    Thanks
    John

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  10. It is rare for a pixel controller used for one item (megatree or house outline) to be used on another element within the same display. Part of this is about distance limit the pixel data can travel (usually 15 to 30ft) but also the loss of power that occurs over longer distances. So, I would figure on using one controller per element - if you can combine elements, you'll know where that is possible. I'm not sure which singing trees - RGB or LED legacy lights but that could be possible via the RS485 output to another controller (DC or AC).

    No, it isn't easy to combine sequences but you can use timings from one sequence to help sequence other songs. It won't be as hard as you think it is.

    You will NOT run 1650 DMX channels on a single run in almost all cases, you will use several outputs of a controller. Once you lay out the lights, think about where they will be placed on the house, then drive from there.

    No, strips do not have any "sequences" in them - this comes only from the controller and from there, the software.

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  11. On the 2 13.6' sections above the big garage. If I made that one big run.Do I have to put the extra power supply between to two 13.6' or could I put it at the end of the two 13.6' section?

    what project would you use the 30/30 or the 60/60 on ?

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    1. I would NEVER recommend 30/30 to 60/60 pixel strip on house outline:

      * You have to cut the strips so that the buck converter is properly located within a given section (assumes 12v since 5v strip would be nuts to use)
      * At any typical distance (50, 100ft) it isn't possible to make out the difference in 30/30 and 30/10.
      * It is very expensive to use 30/30 or 60/60.
      * It requires a HUGE number of channels and/or runs

      On the question about were to power inject, it could be either the center or the end, it really just depends on where your controller is located and how it makes the most sense to run the power wires.

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  12. Can the middle of a line be the only place where power is placed? I ask because on my garage outline, it would be more efficient to connect power at the middle of the top section.

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    1. No, power can be injected anywhere along the line - at the start, middle, end - it really depends on the situation including the location of the power supplies, wiring path, power consumption in the pixels, etc.

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  13. I like the neon look but am afraid my viewing distance will not be enough for it to work with 30/10 strip. My house is about 30 feet off of my street so would RGB nodes (2"spacing)be a better choice for my application? I know I won't get my neon look but it will be cleaner and won't be as clunky as the 30/10. Is that a safe assumption?

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    1. How "clunky" it will be is a determination made by the designer. For one person this will be fine, for another it won't be good for them. If you'd like tighter pixels, consider 60/20 strip: http://www.holidaycoro.com/Smart-Pixel-LED-RGB-Strip-60-LEDs-m-20-Pixels-m-p/708-white.htm

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  14. Now that our displays are getting bigger using RGB Holidaycoro should produce a Null Pixel Kit. Great job with everything David thank you for your help and great products.

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  15. Hi - What is the maximum distance of the "longest" green line (power) and the purple line (signal) in the above house picture.

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    1. For signal this will vary - it can run from 15 to 45 feet based on the wire, external interference and other factors. We generally say about 25ft is a safe distance. For power - this will vary based on the wire gauge, voltage and number of lights. So there is no one single answer for this.

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  16. on the front garage line run you are using ghost/null pixels (unlit string of RGB pixels?)to carry the data signal from the controller to that run? basically using the CIs of the string to relay the data from one CI to the next to get the data signal to the end of the ghost/null string and to the beginning of the string run on the front garage outline?

    how long can a data signal be run from the controller using traditional wiring before the ghost/null pixel method would be needed to relay the data signal? 15 to 20 feet?

    also, for power injection. is it possible to use a stand alone 12v power source to inject power into a section that is experience power loss? basically can I buy one of your 12v power sources and run the + and N from it straight into the + and - of a section of RGBs that is experiencing power loss or does the power injection need to be ran all the way from the controllers power source for some reason? I'm guessing that if the needed injection location was too far away it wouldn't even be possible to run power injection from the controllers power source would it?

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  17. I've recently placed an order with Holiday Coro for everything that I think I will need for my display. I've extensively read all of your articles and think I have a pretty firm grasp on things so far. If I run into any issues during the set up I'll make sure to contact you for advice.

    Thanks again for everything and all your great detailed videos and informative articles. They both have been very helpful.

    -Jake Kaech

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    1. Happy to help! Best of luck with your project!

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  18. About to order a bunch of the "Brilliant Bulb" c9 lights. I am not finding much reference to mounting the pixels on rain gutters or along shingles. What products have proven to work with these pixels? - staple gun not an option ;)

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    1. Each house and mounting method is going to be different. Typically we suggest to mount the bulbs below the gutter - this reduces issues with snow and mounting and you can use 1/2 PVC pipe and our clips: http://www.holidaycoro.com/Half-Inch-Lexan-Pipe-Mounting-Clip-p/770.htm For some other situations you may wish to use our Brilliant Bulb mounting strip: http://www.holidaycoro.com/Mounting-Strips-for-Brilliant-Bulbs-p/786.htm

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  19. About to order a bunch of the "Brilliant Bulb" c9 lights. I am not finding much reference to mounting the pixels on rain gutters or along shingles. What products have proven to work with these pixels? - staple gun not an option ;)

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    1. No - staples are surely not the answer with pixels. Each situation is different because each house is different but for a vast majority of houses, mounting the bulbs to 1/2" PVC pipe works best and then mounting the PVC pipe with these: http://www.holidaycoro.com/Half-Inch-Lexan-Pipe-Mounting-Clip-p/770.htm There is a photo on that page with and example of that mounting method.

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  20. On the square node 12v dc, 2811 for the roof line and outline on the house.

    Do you sell C9 Topper to add on those or are they not needed. I seen you do sell the the c9 topper w/a different type of pixel but those are double the price?

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    1. If you are going with a bulb like the Brilliant Bulb, I would use a purpose made product, not a cover over a square 8mm LED as these can have issues with coming off the pixel.

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  21. The square node pixels do not need any type of diffuser "topper" and I don't know of any that could be used with that style with out modification. The brilliant bulbs that come with the diffusers are a completely different kind of pixel than the typical square node pixel.

    -Jake

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    1. That is correct - our Brilliant Bulbs actually use two 5050 RGB LED's not one 8mm LED as used in some "bulb" type lights.

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  22. Mic41
    Can I cut a 30pixelx/meter ws2811 5m strip in half and put in on 2 different outputs on a Alpha pix 16 controller? To use one 16ft strip for 2 outside corners of my house. I want to outline my house. 2story farm house with 158ft of sofit. My question is for the corner post's. Also where do I start the pixel addressing? On the lowest level of pixels and then work my way to the gable?

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    1. Yes, you can cut 30/10 pixel strip around every 4" (one pixel) and use it as needed. How you address your pixels is completely up to you - typically we start in the lower left and work to the right.

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  23. I bought the RGB House Outline package - how do I send power to strip with that?

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    1. I'd recommend contacting our support at www.holidaycoro.com/support

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  24. For the house outline kit, is it worth getting a 16 port controller for my setup? If the amps going to each strand of 50 smart 2811 led's is 3amps. That would limit the controller to handle one strand per output on each side if there are dual power supplies. If I am doubling up the strands so, 100 in each port, 4 ports total used. That would have me using 24 amps which would allow me one more strand to be connected to that side of the controller safely? 27 amps used(full white) with 3 ports in the controller (one side,350 watt power supply)not able to be used?

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    1. When someone, including HolidayCoro is doing a design they can either go with more power injection and a lower per-output use or more outputs but less power injection. For advanced users, power injection isn't uncommon but we tend to make things as easy as possible for customers and often use more outputs so that more complex wiring isn't required. In some cases, power injection might not even be that much cheaper by the time tee's and additional wiring are included.

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  25. What software are you using to do the house layout?

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    1. We use a specialised CAD application - any of the free CAD applications or even visio work great for layout.

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  26. Great article! I'm just starting out and wanted to do a simple element this year, outlining the front fascia areas that are viewable from the street. Can the C7/C9 smart pixels be attached using gutter clips? I've searched the site and that point wasn't made clear.

    I'm going for a more traditional look that will change with basic sequencing by day and theme.

    Also -- are there any options to control the sequences without a computer hooked up the whole time directly? Thanks in advance.

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    1. Yes, most "gutter" clips can be used with our brilliant bulbs. If you'd like to test them, a sample bulb can be found here: http://www.holidaycoro.com/product-p/709-sample.htm

      There is something called a Pi player that can do this but I'd only recommend it for experienced customers. In 2018, we will be releasing the EasyLights controller that has a built-in player.

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  27. Hello. I have a question on the ghost/null pixels. How do you make them or do you buy them? Also, how do you splice them into the strips?

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    1. A null pixel is just a pixel. It doesn't even need to be the same physical format - so you can use a node to extend the distance of a design that uses strip lights - they need to only be the same protocol. If you are just starting out, try to avoid using null pixels because they are not a magic bullet - you still need to get power to these further pixels.

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  28. Very awesome post! Very helpful, whish I would have reviewed this before I purchased a couple of strips. One note, the spreadsheet was awesome but the drop down list (cell A28 on 'pixel house outline') isn't expanded to pull pixel data for customer supplied items that are input into rows 28 and below on the pixel data tab. Suggest increasing source range under data validation settings.

    Again, this post was most helpful for learning and new users. Very well thought out and organized. My search led me to this post, which led me to your site and you have a lot of nice products there. I especially like the ghost node connector, I was struggling how to make this and you have a very clean design.

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