Soldering Extension Wire onto Strip Light

We have customers that are sometimes concerned about working with strip lighting we sell and how they can extend it and/or attach connectors to it.  The video below shows how simple and quick it can be to solder on extension wiring onto strip lighting:

You can find our extension wire here:

4 Conductor, 18 AWG
3 Conductor, 18 AWG

Is a RGB Pixel Package A Good Choice for My RGB Project?

A very common question we get is - does HolidayCoro have a package or kit of RGB pixel items that can be used for RGB projects.  This blog post hopes to be able to provide you with sound advice about when a "package" or kit is a good choice and when it isn't a good choice for you and your project.  This article is a follow-up to our "Cheap Isn't Free When It Comes To RGB" blog post which talks about the pros and cons of DIY vs vendor developed solutions from a time and cost perspective.  First, let's start off with defining the project you plan to build - while there are many different types of projects that involve RGB and/or pixels - in this article we will use the two most popular uses of pixels today and the ones for which we receive the most questions about:

• Outline a House (soffit, fascia, roof line, windows, etc) with pixels (covered in this blog post)
• Building a pixel MegaTree

Outlining A House with Pixels

Each time we work with a customer on a house outline there are many common items/questions for all installations - length (linear feet) of area to cover, density of control (pixels per meter or inch), budget, controllers and the overall look the customer wants to achieve.  Let's start with these and look at the different options:

• Length of area to cover - There is never a single length for any house type because each house has different lengths and each customer wishes to outline different areas (windows or no windows, roof line or no roof line).  As such, any "package" deal would need to have the specific amount of lighting for that specific installation.  Additionally, other factors such as long run lengths that might need 12v lights instead of 5v lights can also factor into the decision based on the design of the house.
• Density of control - Some displays are viewed from hundreds of feet away, others are viewed from tens of feet - as such, the value of specific pixel density (30 LED/m vs., say 48 LED/m or 60 LED/m) changes from display to display.  Additionally, with different density comes different sequencing and bandwidth requirements, which, depending on the display, can be an important factor.
• Budget - Each person's budget is different and that factors into how they design their display.  Some customers will want nice moulded waterproof connections on lights, others are satisfied by basic, non-waterproof connections.
• Controllers - The number and type of controllers will vary depending on the physical layout of the house.  Sometimes it can be be cheaper and easier to install more controllers than less due to the amount of additional wiring that would be required to support just one controller.

As you can see, even with just this small subset of factors that go into the proper design of a house outline - there will never be the same "package" for each house because there are just too many variables involved.

For house outlines, you'll either need to use a guide like our, how-to blog post on the subject to design your own or use a design service offered by some vendors that look at your specific needs and then can recommend the exact right combination of hardware for your house.  Currently no other vendor other than HolidayCoro offers custom house outline services.  As HolidayCoro attempts to strike a balance as we are a low-margin hardware vendor we offer design services as an additional for fee service which can be found here:  https://www.holidaycoro.com/Services-Consulting-s/1858.htm

For a representation of the hardware in a common house outline, see:  https://www.holidaycoro.com/RGB-House-Outline-Packages-s/1967.htm 

Pixel MegaTree

A pixel MegaTree is a very common project for many displays.  A pixel MegaTree is pretty much just a large matrix of pixels, wrapped around a cone and is used to display effects.  There are a number of inputs into a MegaTree and they are:

• Height and Width of the MegaTree - Typically a "package" MegaTree will be set for a specific height because the diameter of the tree along with the spacing of the pixels in the package determine the final overall height.  If the size of the tree and the mounting method used to build that tree work well for you, a package may be a good choice.  If you have specific spacing requirements, such as the high density needed to display readable, scrolling text, the pixels included with a package may not be the best choice.  Additionally, if you have specific needs such as a smaller tree due to a small yard or close proximity to your audience, or, if your display is huge and you need something more in "scale" with your other display items, a packaged design likely isn't a good choice.
• Pixel Type - The type of pixel used on a MegaTree greatly affects the overall look and functionality of the MegaTree.  Choices can include nodes, strip or even bulbs.  Each physical type of pixel has a pro and con.
• Controller / Power - Since MegaTrees are typically full (360 degree) or half (180 degree) cones, it makes sense to have the power and controller centrally located in the trunk and thus most packages include a controller, power supply(s) and mounting box.

So, while a MegaTree does allow for some level of "standardization" to allow for it to be put into a package, make sure that package meets your pixel type and density requirements - if your specific needs, such as height, spacing or node type differ, you'll likely be better off with a custom solution instead of a package.

HolidayCoro offers common pixel tree formats of 50 pixels x 12 or 50 pixels by 16 in strips and nodes:  https://www.holidaycoro.com/RGB-Pixel-Mega-Tree-Packages-s/1964.htm

If your needs are more specific, HolidayCoro can also design a MegaTree based on your specific project requirements through our consulting service: https://www.holidaycoro.com/Services-Consulting-s/1858.htm

Customer Question: Should I use a centralized or de-centralized controller for an element?

HolidayCoro sales/support often sees common, open-ended questions from our customers and here on our blog we post detailed responses publicly so that other people will be able to learn from the decision making process we use to answer these questions.

Today's question is:  "I am making 16 pyramids and would like to light them up using 3 or 4 Basic Rectangle RGB LED Waterproof Module per pyramid.  The pyramids will be in the front yard each about a yard apart.  My Question - should I buy 16x Item #30 Basic 3 Channel RGB DMX Controller or should I buy 2x Item #24 Basic RGB 27 Channel DMX Controller.  Is there any advantage to either in this situation?"

For this given project it has already been determined that basic or dumb RGB lights should be used as opposed to pixels and this is often the case when an element doesn't need the control that pixels offer or when there are larger distances between elements.  So the question becomes - should the basic RGB DMX controller be centralized in the form of a 27 channel (9 RGB outputs) DMX controller or individual 3 channel (1 RGB output) DMX controller in each element?  The issue comes down mainly to two factors - cost and complexity:

• Cost - The number of RGB lights won't change between the two methods, so we'll exclude that from the calculations, though what does mainly matter are wiring, power supplies, controllers.  Also, we need to determine he power consumption of the RGB Modules, which in this case consume about 100ma (1/10th of an amp) at 12v DC - or 16 elements x 4 modules is 6.4 amps total.  So, we'll take the number of individual elements here - 16 and do some comparison math with the two options: 
• Centralized - This method allows us to have one (or two in this case) centralized controllers - the costs involved are:
• $114 ($57 x 2) - 27 Channel DMX controllers
• $26 ($13 x 2) - 45w (3.75amps at 12v) power supply.  This solution would power each 27 channel controller with a single power supply.  It's a little tight on the power at 3.2 amps total per controller (32 modules per controller) but it should work.
• $20 ($10 x 2) - Waterproof housing.  The 27 channel controller isn't waterproof, so you'll need a waterproof/resistant housing and this varies by region, water/snow conditions and budget.
• $20 (100ft @ $.10 per foot x 2) - CAT5 wiring.  You'll need to get the output of the controller out to the individual elements and CAT5 would be a good solution here as the current consumption of the lights is below the current carying ability of CAT5 at a bout 3 to 4 amps and it has 8 wires, so you could double up each wire for the 4 wires required for RGB lights.
• ~$180 - Total
• De-Centralized - This method allows us to have an individual, 3 channel DMX controllers in each element - the costs involved are:
• $144 ($9 x 16) - 3 Channel, CAT5 based controllers
• $26 ($13 x 2) - 45w (3.75amps at 12v) power supply.
• $8 (80ft @ $.10 per foot) - CAT5 wiring.  Using the DMX+Power over CAT5 system, it is possible to inject power at the start of the string and again at the 8th element.
• $23 ($1.50 x 16) - 3 Way Splitters for the DMX signal+power.
• ~$201 - Total

Of course there are other minor costs - shrink wrap, solder, tools, shipping, etc and we've not included those in the calculations above.  So, on the surface, they look pretty much about the same from a cost basis, so let's take a closer look and consider all the other factors:

• Complexity
• Interconnections - Left out from above on both are how you'll interconnect the wiring from the element to the controllers.  
• Centralized - With the centralized solution, you could solder the CAT5 wire directly to the lights in the element and then have elements with 20, 15, 10 and 5 ft lengths of cable coming off them and then you'd fish that wire into the controller case and screw it down to the terminals on the controller.  The problems with this solution are that it makes future adjustments in length complicated since you've already set the length of the cable from the element to the controller when you built the element.  Additionally, you'll have to deal with elements that have attached wire and then manually wire up each element to the controller, adding to your display setup time.  An additional down side to this method is that you also have more wire spread out over your display which can present safety/tripping hazards.  The upside to this method is that it doesn't really require any additional connectors - just tin the wires where they go into the controller screw terminals.
• De-Centralized - If you've placed the individual CAT5 controllers in each element, that means that you can simply attach a 3 way splitter to each CAT5 plug, then plug in the necessary CAT5 cable between each element (5ft lengths in this case) in a daisy chain arrangement.  Then you just build a power injector for each of the two bands of 8 elements and this allows you to run the power and the DMX signal from one element to the next.  The amount of wire is limited as it only goes from one element to the next.  The down side is that you need to ensure that you control water ingress in to the CAT5 connectors and use a corrosion control spray - usually mounting the controller up-side down under the element would be more than sufficient to manage water ingress.  The real beauty of the Power+DMX over CAT system is that you can assembly your display quickly just by plugging into each element to the element next to it.

Factors to Consider When Designing an RGB Pixel Matrix

Over the years we at HolidayCoro have been asked why we only sell a single pixel matrix product - our 18" x 24" pixel with either 150 or 162 pixels.  Well, actually, we've produced a fair number of custom matrix based panel items for customers over the years and the main reason we don't offer all these variations for sale is because each project is so different.  The article hopes to provide information on factors that we consider when working with customers on designing a pixel matrix and hopefully this will help those building their own or working with us to custom produce one.

• What exactly is the purpose of the pixel matrix?
• Is this matrix intended to be dense enough that viewers will be able to see objects scrolling or displayed on it such as text, icons or logos?  
• What is the viewing distance from the matrix to the viewer?  If you've ever looked at a big screen TV up close, you can understand the relationship the size of the pixels (lights) have to the distance they are being viewed from.
• What is the viewing angle?  A curve pixel panel (such as a pixel megatree) can look odd if all the pixels in the matrix are not visible to the viewer.
• What is the shape of the matrix?  Is the matrix a cone, in the case of a pixel megatree, where the pixels at the top are in a much higher density than those at the bottom of the tree?  Is the matrix cylindrical?  flat? concave or convex?  All these designs have an effect on the final output, pixel density and mounting methods.
• Technical factors to consider include:
• Number of pixels - This is an important factor to consider and the number shouldn't be random - it should be based on the design requirements.  Look closely at how many pixels you'll need and their spacing from each other.  If needed, build a sample mock-up and view it from the distance and angle you expect your viewer to view it from. 
• Pixel height and width - Also consider how many pixels you may need to display certain items such as a text font which often require a 5x8 pattern.  Again, keep in mind that you will also need to have the pixels close enough that the human eye can make out the pattern - just because it might look good in the sequencing software doesn't mean that will translate into the real world.  
• Multi-Panel Alignment - If the matrix will be comprised of several panels, be sure to carefully consider the spacing within a panel and how it relates to the spacing induced between two adjoining panels.  This may mean that you will need to increase the center-to-center spacing of the lights to match that of the panel-to-panel gap.
• Mounting or support - An important part of any matrix is how you will mount it - because a matrix tends to be a flat area (excluding pixel megatrees), you'll need to think hard about what system you'll use to mount the substrate on to which the pixels are mounted. If that surface catches the air, there could be problems with it blowing over or toppling the support structure.  Also consider that you'll need to store this mounting system in the off-season - so if the panels need to go into an attic, consider the opening going to the attic.
• Substrate mounting - In most cases, you'll need to mount your pixels to a substrate - not only to support them but to maintain a clean and even spacing - there isn't anything worse than a matrix that has mis-aligned pixels.  How you mount those pixels can vary - it could be holes in coro like we do at HolidayCoro or it could be screwed or glued to wood slats or plywood - this all depends on your pixel type.
• Pixel type - The type of pixel you select will often be a by-product of the distance and viewing angle of the people viewing your matrix.  These pixels could be in a strip form, node form or module form and each has it's pros and cons and there is no one pixel that is best suited for all matrix types.
• Channels - Keep in mind that you'll often have many, many DMX channels on a matrix display and it makes sense to select pixel counts that fall within a set number of DMX universes - so don't design a pixel display that requires 180 pixels (18 wide by 10 high) if it could have been done in 163 pixels (18 wide by 9 high) which fits neatly into a single DMX universe and thus saves you a controller or controller output and also makes your sequencing easier to setup and manage.
• Repairs - Factor in that pixels DO fail and that you'll need to fix them.  So consider how easy it will be to remove and replace pixels.
• Cost / Budget - A matrix can grow in cost quite quickly when you factor in hundreds to thousands of pixels, so be sure to ask yourself the overall value of the matrix and how well it accomplishes its goal.  If this is just for announcing the radio station and song titles, a simple matrix will do - if you need to scroll logos or animations, you'll need a larger and more expensive matrix.
• Big isn't always better - Since pixels have come down in price and complexity, we've seen a number of pixel matrix panels (and pixel megatrees) in displays that just completely over-shadow and "hog" the display.  We believe that a well balanced display should be the ideal and that one mega-element can leave your audience so fixated on one area that they fail to see other areas and animation. 
• Software & Sequencing - Building a matrix panel is only one part of the process and the other major part is generating the sequencing for that panel.  Since it is nearly impossible to "hand" sequence matrix displays, you'll want to consider xLights, which has matrix effects, scrolling text, pictures and video built in.  You may even want to design your pixel display hardware, then start sequencing it before you buy or build it to evaluate how complex it will be to sequence the matrix. 

How many lights can be connected to a controller, what controller do I need for RGB lights, what wiring should I use for RGB lights and/or what power supply do I need for my RGB lights? (Updated for 2026)

Updated September 2026. This post was rewritten around pixels, which have replaced dumb RGB for nearly every holiday project.

We often get asked how many lights can be connected to a controller, what power supply to use and what wire to run. This post answers those questions for pixel lights and pixel controllers.

A word of caution first: if you get the power side wrong, the results range from flickering lights to damaged hardware and, in the worst case, a fire. Don't "wing it." If you'd rather just have the answer, fill out our project design form and we'll put together a recommendation and a complete quote, or start with one of our Ready2Run packages, where the power math is already done.

The key is to see the lights and the controller as parts of one system:

Pixels → Pixel wiring → Controller → Power wiring → Power supply

Let's work through the chain.

1. The pixels

Everything starts with the lights, because every other part is sized to them. When choosing pixels, consider:

• Format. Nodes, strip, modules or bulbs, depending on how you'll mount them and whether they need to follow corners or curves. For house outlines, MegaTrees and props, 12mm nodes are the most common choice.
• Voltage. Pixels are usually 5v or 12v DC. 12v runs farther before you need to inject power and is the more forgiving choice for most holiday projects. 5v is slightly more efficient but needs more careful power planning.
• Power draw. This is the number that drives everything else. Our 12v 12mm nodes draw about 45 milliamps each at full white, or about 0.55 watts per pixel.

Always figure power at full white (red, green and blue all on), since that's the most a pixel can draw.

2. The pixel wiring

This is the wire between each pixel in a string, or the circuit board in a strip. It carries power from the controller down the run, and it's where most power problems start.

There's no standard here. One vendor's nodes may use thick 18 AWG wire while another's look identical but use thin 22 AWG. Thinner wire loses more power over distance, so the pixels at the end of the run get less voltage than the ones at the start.

Ideally, your vendor tells you how many pixels can run before you need to inject power. Our 100-count 12mm node strings, for example, are designed to run the full 100 nodes with power fed at the start. If your vendor doesn't publish this, measure it yourself: set the run to full white for 15 to 30 minutes, then measure the voltage at the first and last pixel with a meter. A drop of 10 to 20% is usually fine. Much more than that and you'll see dimming, color shift or random flicker at the end of the run.

When a run is longer than the pixels can carry power, you inject power: run heavier wire from the power supply to a point partway down the run and connect it to the string's power and ground there. The data passes straight through.

3. The controller

A pixel controller receives data from your sequencing software over your network (E1.31) and sends it to each pixel. It also passes power from the power supply through to each output. When sizing a controller, check:

• Pixels per output. How many pixels each output can drive. This is usually the limit you hit first on long runs.
• Current per output. How many amps each output can supply. Divide your run's watts by the voltage to get amps: a 100-pixel run at 0.55 watts each is 55 watts, or about 4.6 amps at 12v.
• Current per bank and per controller. Larger controllers split their outputs into power banks, often each fed by its own power supply.

Don't size by the fuse. The fuse is there to protect against a short, not to tell you how much the output can carry.

Our Controller Selection Wizard will match a controller to your pixel count and power, or see our Ready2Run pixel controllers.

4. The power wiring

This wire carries power from the power supply to the controller, and to any power injection points. Size it by two things: the total power of every pixel it feeds, and the distance it has to run. Two controller outputs of 55 watts each need a wire that can carry 110 watts over that distance. Our technical guide to wire selection has the charts.

5. The power supply

The power supply is the last thing you choose, and it's simple once the rest is done:

• Total power. Add up every pixel it feeds at full white, then add 10 to 20% headroom. 576 pixels at 0.55 watts is about 317 watts, so you'd want a supply rated comfortably above that.
• Voltage. Match your pixels: 12v pixels need a 12v supply.
• Enclosure and cooling. Outdoor supplies need to be protected from water but still get enough airflow, since larger supplies often have fans. Our Ready2Run controllers come with the power supply already mounted in the enclosure with the controller.

See our power supplies.

Putting it together

Work from the pixels up: count your pixels, figure watts at full white, split long runs or plan power injection, pick a controller with enough outputs and capacity, size the wire and pick a supply with headroom. For a complete worked example on a real house, see our detailed house outline design guide.

Related posts:

• See the effects of power draw on long runs of pixels
• Where do I start when designing a new pixel project?
• Dumb RGB or pixels: which is right for me?

HolidayCoro.com

The Nearly Famous RGB Video Series - Everything You Wanted To Know About Pixels But Couldn't Find The Answer

When I started researching RGB and pixel solutions in early 2010, there was just about no information on the internet as to what all the teminolgy, protocols, wiring, controllers and other items were.  After extensive research and work with others, I decided to document all the information I knew at the time in the form of a video series.  The focus behind the videos was to simply show each type of lighting, controller, wiring, etc in a non-vendor specific manner so that someone just getting started out could get up to speed on the terminolgy and functions.  This information, while produced in late 2010, early 2011 is older now, every bit of it is still completely relevant.  Since this information is squirrled away on our website, I though I would repost it here for those new to RGB and pixels.

The videos below cover the general topics of RGB as they relate to Holiday Lighting.

Video #1 What is RGB? What are the different type of RGB lighting devices? What is Basic RGB and RGB Pixels? How to Pixels get their addresses? How do you assign channels to pixels? What are controller macros?
Video #2 How do I fix dead pixels? What is the difference between three and four wire pixels?  Does it matter? How do I know which end of my pixels to hook to the controller?  Does it matter? How do I power my pixels? Why are there different voltages for pixels? What is the difference between centralized and de-centralized power distribution of pixels? How many pixels can be on a single controller output? What is color depth in pixels?  Why does it matter?
Video #3 What are the different type of pixel chips? What quality issues should I be aware of when purchasing pixels? What are the drawbacks of RGB over just regular Christmas lights? What advantage do Basic RGB and RGB Pixels give me?
Video #4 What are the different types of Basic RGB controllers? Why would I want to use basic RGB controllers and LEDs instead of pixel based controllers and LEDs? What are the different types of RGB Pixel controllers?

Outlining Your House in RGB Lights - Detailed Design Guide (Updated for 2026)

Updated September 2026. We rewrote this guide around the pixels, mounting and controllers we recommend today. The original 2013 version was built around pixel strip and hardware that has since been replaced.

When you're planning a Christmas display, it's easy to focus on everything going in the yard. But the biggest prop is already there: your house. Outline it, and the house becomes part of the sequence, framing everything you've built in front of it.

Vineyards Lights, Meridian, ID. The rooflines, peaks and garage all become part of the show.

If you want the big picture first (why a mounting system matters and how to pick between seasonal and permanent), start with our house outline primer. This post is the step-by-step design: how to measure, how many pixels you need, how to power them and where the controller goes.

Would you rather have us do the math? Fill out our project design form and we'll send you instructions for sending us one photo of your house and your measurements. We'll put together a recommendation and a complete quote with the controller, mounting, hardware and accessories for your project.

Step 1: Start with a photo

Go outside and take a photo of your house from where your audience will see it, usually the street. You'll sketch your design on this photo and use it to record measurements, where cables will run and where the controller and power supplies will go.

We'll use Nathanial R.'s house as our example throughout. It has 19 separate rooflines, so it's a good example of how a house with complex roof lines can be handled.

Step 2: Measure every run

Get out the ladder and tape measure and record the exact length of every section you want to outline. Write each one on the photo.

Accuracy matters. Every foot you miss is another 4 pixels at 3 inch spacing, which changes your pixel count, your power budget and possibly how many controller outputs you need.

Step 3: Choose seasonal or permanent mounting

Across a whole house, mounting pixels one at a time means a lot of clips, a lot of alignment and a lot of visible black wire. A mounting system lets you build the outline in sections that hold their spacing and aim, snap into a few clips and come down as a unit for repairs.

Want it to come down after Christmas? Use Pixel Pipe. Each aluminum pipe is 7.3 feet long with 88 holes on 1 inch centers, sized for standard 12mm bullet pixel nodes. It's available in black, white or mill-finish grey, mounts with clear, UV-resistant clips that can stay on the house year-round, and rotates in its clips so you can aim the pixels toward your viewing area. Couplers, corners and tees let you follow the roofline.

Want it to stay up? Use PixaTrack. Each track is 6.66 feet long with 80 holes on 1 inch centers and takes 12mm bullet or square-neck nodes. It fully encloses the wiring to protect it from UV and animals, comes in off-white or brown to blend with the house, and is available with front-facing or side/down-facing holes.

Both come as samples, so you can hold one up against your house before you decide.

Step 4: Pick your spacing and count your pixels

Because both systems are drilled on 1 inch centers, you can space pixels at 1, 2, 3 inches or more by skipping holes. Two things set how far apart you can go:

• The wire length between nodes on the pixel string. Our 100-count 12mm node strings reach up to about 3.4 inches between nodes. For wider spacing, our 6 inch strings reach up to about 6.8 inches.
• The look you want. Closer spacing reads as a solid line and gives you more resolution for effects. Wider spacing costs less and gives a more classic bulb-by-bulb look.

The math is simple:

Pixels = run length in inches ÷ spacing in inches
DMX channels = pixels × 3

For Nathanial's house we grouped the 19 measured sections into four continuous runs and used 3 inch spacing:

Run	Length	Pixels (3" spacing)	DMX channels	Watts at full white
Garage front	26 ft	104	312	57
Garage, over the doors	34 ft	136	408	75
Front of house, upper	53 ft	212	636	117
Front of house, lower	31 ft	124	372	68
Total	144 ft	576	1,728	317

At 170 pixels per DMX universe, 576 pixels needs 4 universes. Any current E1.31 pixel controller handles that over a single network cable.

Step 5: Plan your power

Our 12v, 12mm nodes draw about 0.55 watts each at full white (45 milliamps). That's where the watts column above comes from: 576 pixels × 0.55 W = about 317 watts, or roughly 26 amps at 12 volts. Size your power supplies with headroom above that number, since draw varies with temperature, wiring and supply voltage.

The second question is how far the power can travel. As power runs down a string, voltage drops through the LEDs and the wire itself. Our 100-count node strings are designed to run the full 100 nodes with power fed at the start. Past that, plan to inject power. Three of the four runs above are over 100 pixels, so each would get power injection partway along, or be split into two shorter runs fed from separate outputs.

To inject, run heavier-gauge wire (14 AWG is a good start) from the power supply to the injection point and connect it to the power and ground of the string there. The data passes straight through, since each pixel regenerates it. See our guide to wire selection for sizing the injection wire.

Test before it goes on the house. Build a section, set it to full white for 15 to 30 minutes and measure the voltage at the controller output and at the last pixel with a multimeter. A drop of 10 to 20% is usually fine. Much more than that and you'll see dimming or color shift at the end of the run, or random flicker if the voltage falls below what the pixel chips need. Finding that on the ground is a lot easier than finding it on the roof.

Step 6: Place the controller

Look at your photo for where runs start and end. Places where two runs meet, like a garage corner or the peak over a front door, are natural spots to feed two outputs from one location. Current pixel controllers and sequencing software let you reverse a run's direction, so a run can start at either end.

The data signal from a pixel controller output only travels a limited distance to the first pixel, so you have two basic layouts:

• One central controller. An AlphaPix Classic with 4 or 16 outputs, placed somewhere central and close to the runs. It keeps everything in one enclosure, and spare outputs can drive other props in the yard.
• A controller plus long-range receivers. With a Flex system, the controller can sit in the garage and small long-range receivers go near the roofline where the runs start. This is the better fit for large houses, runs that start far apart, or when you want the main controller out of sight.

For Nathanial's four runs and about 317 watts, a single 4-output controller placed near the garage corner would handle the whole outline. Adding props later, or splitting the long runs, is where a 16-output controller or a Flex system with receivers starts to make sense. Our Controller Selection Wizard walks you through the options.

Step 7: Build and test on the ground

One of the biggest advantages of Pixel Pipe and PixaTrack is that you can build each section on the ground, plug it in and test it before it goes up. With connectors between sections, a problem later means unplugging one section, fixing it in the garage and putting it back without disturbing your spacing. With a seasonal install, the sections come down as a unit and go back up next year exactly as they were.

Watch the full process

Our house outline video walks through planning and building an outline with Pixel Pipe and PixaTrack from start to finish:

Let us put it together for you

You don't have to work out every part of the system yourself. Fill out our project design form and we'll send you instructions for sending one photo of your house and your measurements. We'll look at what you're planning and put together a recommendation and a complete quote with the controller, mounting, hardware and accessories you'll need.

Want to see the mounting in person first? Pixel Pipe and PixaTrack samples let you compare colors against your house before choosing a system.

HolidayCoro.com

Which is better for my RGB lighting project - Dumb or Smart RGB Lights? (Updated for 2026)

Updated September 2026.

The short answer today: go with pixels.

When we made the video below, dumb RGB and smart pixels were both reasonable choices depending on the project. That's no longer the case. The cost of pixels has come down so much, and pixels can do so much more than dumb RGB, that dumb RGB is now rarely used in holiday displays. If you are not using dumb RGB now, stick with pixel products.

What's the difference?

Dumb RGB (also called basic RGB) lights can change color, but every light connected to the same controller output changes together. A whole string or strip is always one color at a time.

Smart RGB, or pixels, are individually controlled. Every pixel, or small group of lights, can be a different color at the same moment. That's what makes chases, waves, text, pictures and all the effects you see in modern displays possible.

Why pixels won

• Price. The price gap that once made dumb RGB attractive has all but disappeared, especially once you count the controllers and wiring needed to get the same result.
• Capability. A pixel can do everything a dumb light can, and a dumb light can't do most of what a pixel can. You can always make a string of pixels act like one color; you can never make a dumb string act like pixels.
• Simpler wiring. One pixel controller can drive thousands of pixels over a single network cable. Getting even a fraction of that control with dumb RGB means many more controllers and a lot more wire.
• Software and sequences. Today's sequencing software, like xLights, and nearly all available sequences are built around pixels.
• Room to grow. Everything you buy today works with the next pixel element you add.

Where dumb RGB still fits

There are still a few spots where dumb RGB makes sense, like simple flood lighting that only ever needs to be one color at a time, or expanding a dumb RGB setup you already own. For anything new, choose pixels.

The original video

The video below still does a good job explaining how the two types work, even though the recommendation has changed since it was made.

Ready to start?

See our pixel lights and pixel controllers, read where to start with a new pixel project, or fill out our project design form for a recommendation and quote.

HolidayCoro.com

So you're thinking of mounting RGB lights on your house permanently? (Updated for 2026)

Updated September 2026. This post was rewritten around the permanent mounting and control options available today.

Once people get into pixels, a common next step is mounting them on the house permanently instead of putting them up and taking them down every season. It makes sense: pixels are small enough to hide under a soffit, and because they can be any color, the same lights work for Valentine's Day, St. Patrick's Day, the Fourth of July, game days, Halloween and Christmas, with warm white architectural lighting in between.

PixaTrack (right) is built for permanent installs and comes in off-white and brown.

Start with the right mounting

A seasonal install can get away with clips and exposed wire for a month. A permanent install lives through summer sun, winter storms and every squirrel in the neighborhood, year after year. That's what PixaTrack was designed for:

• It fully encloses the wiring, protecting it from UV damage and keeping animals away from it.
• It blends with the house. PixaTrack comes in off-white or brown, and with the wiring hidden, the install is hard to spot during the day. That also helps with HOAs.
• It holds your spacing and aim. Aluminum track, 6.66 feet long, drilled every 1 inch for standard 12mm nodes, so every pixel lines up.
• Front-facing or side/down-facing. Choose front holes for a visible outline, or side/down holes to light the wall and hide the pixels.
• Samples are available, so you can hold a piece up against your house and check the color before you buy.

PixaTrack installed on a white soffit.

Things to consider before you go permanent

Reliability of the lights.
Much of the pixel hardware on the market is built with price as the main driver, and that usually shows up in long-term reliability. Over the years we've seen plastics and potting compounds that yellow or crack from heat and UV, LEDs that don't tolerate voltage swings, and wire insulation that breaks down after a few seasons outdoors. Something that survives a month in December may not survive year-round. Enclosing the pixels' wiring in track helps a lot, but start with quality pixels.

Power supplies and controllers.
Pixels run on low-voltage DC, so you'll need power supplies, and both they and the controller need a spot that stays dry but still gets airflow. Don't run a power supply at or near its rated maximum; leave 10 to 20% headroom so it isn't working at its limit every night of the year. Also keep the controller reasonably close to where the runs start, or use long-range receivers so the outputs can sit near the roofline.

Running the lights when there's no show.
Between holidays, you'll want the lights to come on by themselves: warm white every evening, team colors on game day, red, white and blue for the Fourth. The easiest way is FPP (Falcon Player), free show-player software that runs on a small computer like a Raspberry Pi. You build your looks and sequences in xLights, and FPP runs them on a schedule all year without a PC.

Codes and wiring.
A permanent install often means permanent AC power to the power supplies. Extension cords that are fine for a month-long seasonal display are not meant to live outdoors year-round. Check with your local building code office about the requirements for permanent low-voltage lighting and the AC circuits that feed it, and use an electrician where required.

Temperature range.
If you live somewhere with extreme heat, cold or sun, check the rated operating range of the pixels, power supplies and controller against your climate.

Questions to ask any vendor

• Warranty. Does it exclude year-round installation? Will the vendor still be around if you need to make a claim?
• Testing. Has the product actually been tested for long-term outdoor use?
• Certifications. A listing from a recognized testing lab shows a vendor invested in the product. Be skeptical of certification marks on products bought directly from overseas marketplaces until they're verified.
• System design. Do the connectors, mounting and power fit together as a system? It's usually obvious when a vendor has thought the whole install through.

Let us design it with you

Fill out our project design form and we'll put together a recommendation and a complete quote with the PixaTrack, pixels, controller, power and accessories you'll need.

For the full design process, see our house outline primer and detailed design guide.

HolidayCoro.com

Outlining Your House in RGB Lights - A Primer (Updated for 2026)

Updated September 2026. This post replaces our original 2013 primer with how we recommend outlining a house today.

When you're planning a Christmas display, it's easy to focus on everything going in the yard.

But the biggest prop is already there: your house.

A yard full of props can already make a great show. Outline the house behind them, and now the house becomes part of the sequence too. It frames everything you've built in front of it and gives you a much bigger canvas to work with.

Here's one from a HolidayCoro customer:

Landry Lights, Hudson, NH. This is a great example of why the house itself can become such a big part of the display.

And when you're putting that many pixels across a house, how you mount them starts to matter.

Why use a mounting system?

You can absolutely hang pixels individually. But across an entire house, you're now dealing with a lot of individual pixels, clips, alignment, and visible black wire.

A mounting system turns that outline into sections you can build once and work with as a unit.

1. Keep the spacing, and the look, consistent.
Instead of positioning and angling every pixel individually on the house, the mounting keeps them at the spacing and orientation you set. You can commit to the look you want, with pixels facing outward for a clean, defined outline or oriented toward the house for a wall-wash effect, without ending up with a mix of both along the same run.

2. Deal with a lot fewer individual clips.
A whole section can snap into a few clips instead of attaching pixels one at a time across the house.

3. Keep the installation cleaner-looking.
Pixel Pipe (seasonal) and PixaTrack (permanent) keep the pixels and wiring organized instead of leaving loose black pixel wire running along the house. That makes the installation less noticeable when the lights are off, too.

4. Bring repairs down to the garage.
With connectors between sections, you can unplug a section, bring it down, make the repair, and put it right back where it was. Your spacing stays intact.

5. Make the next installation easier.
With a seasonal installation, the sections can come down and go back up without starting over on pixel spacing and alignment, or moving the ladder for every individual pixel.

You can also build and test Pixel Pipe and PixaTrack sections on the ground before they go on the house.

A few more customer installs

Casey's 2025 display, before and after. Notice what happens when the house joins the display. The roofline gives the whole show a frame and connects the props in the yard to the house behind them.

Vineyards Lights, Meridian, ID. Look at how much of this display comes from the house outline itself. The rooflines, peaks, garage, and other architectural details all become usable parts of the show.

Thinking about what this could look like on your house?

The first choice is pretty simple.

Want it to come down after Christmas? Go with Pixel Pipe.

Pixel Pipe is built for seasonal installations. The clear, UV-resistant clips can stay on the house year-round, so your completed sections are ready to go back up the next season.

Pixel Pipe can also rotate in its clips, letting you dial in the direction the pixels face toward your viewing area.

Get Seasonal Mounting: Pixel Pipe

Want it to stay up? Go with PixaTrack.

PixaTrack is designed for permanent installations. It fully encloses the wiring, keeping it away from squirrels and other animals while protecting it from UV damage.

The wiring stays out of sight, and PixaTrack is available in off-white or brown to help it blend with the house, which can also help with HOAs.

It's available in front-facing and side/down-facing versions depending on how you want the pixels positioned.

Get Permanent Mounting: PixaTrack

Not sure exactly what you'll need? We'll help you figure it out.

You don't have to work out every part of the system yourself. Fill out our project design form and we'll send you instructions for sending us one photo of your house and your measurements.

We'll look at what you're planning and put together a recommendation and a complete quote with the controller, mounting, hardware, and accessories you'll need for your project.

Want to see the mounting on your house before deciding?

We offer Pixel Pipe and PixaTrack samples so you can see the mounting in person, compare the colors against your house, and get a feel for how it will look before choosing a system.

Still working through the design?

Our house outline video walks through the planning process from start to finish:

Want to run the numbers yourself? Our detailed house outline design guide walks through measuring, pixel counts, power, and controller placement step by step.

HolidayCoro.com

The Good, Bad and the Future: Pixel Nodes



Channel Letter Sign with 8mm Pixel Nodes

8mm Tri-Color RGB Node with 12mm Case

First, a little background on the 8mm, tri-color LED node.  For anyone that has been to Asia (mainly China), you'll notice that they have many signs produced that use these nodes.  These signs are what we would, in the US, call Channel Letter signs.  In the US, we normally have channel letter sign that has an acrylic face with sheet metal sides and back that form a box, which is then illuminated with either neon (older) or LED modules (newer).  This channel letter design in the US produces a smooth clean, single color letter. 

While China also has the same type of channel letter signs, they also have the same sign but instead of an acrylic face they again use sheet metal for the face.  In that sheet metal they then punch ~12mm holes.  In these holes they install either dumb or intelligent RGB nodes.  This creates a sign that can be addressed either as a matrix (intelligent pixels) or just as a single color (dumb).  This type of sign design is nearly non-existent in the US currently.  So, why does this matter?  Well, this explains first why the physical case of nodes are generally 12mm in diameter.  It also explains why the little "fingers" that are on the side of the nodes are only about 1/16 of an inch between the top and bottom - they are design to fit into thin gauge sheet metal and pretty much nothing else. 

Here is the problem - they often are not exactly the same diameter, either from a single vendor, even within a single string or very often from vendor to vendor.  So you might have nodes with diameters of .40", .42", .44", .46" and so on.  So, if you want to make, say, a scrolling matrix panel (see sample panel video we've produced for a customer to the right) with pixel nodes. 

What we found is that when we produced these panels from ABS plastic, a hard, stiff plastic sheet, they would hold perfectly but only if you cut the hole with .01-.02" of the actual diameter of the node.  Any more and the node would either fall out or would be wonky and not point straight out.  Any less and it was impossible to get the node in at all - in fact many people had to use lubricant just to get some of the nodes in a string into the holes (which were all exactly the same diameter).  So, it was clear that if we wanted to sell a product that would hold and mount RGB nodes from any vendor, that we would need a different method of mounting them. 

At first this seems simple - just find some plastic that can hold them, right?  Well, it turns out that isn't the case.  In holding pixel nodes, you have a number of factors to consider:

• They need to be held tightly so as not to point different directions, causing different levels of light output.
• The material needs to be able to "adjust" to slightly different sized nodes from different vendors.
• The material needs to stand up to UV and a wide range of temperatures (-20 to 130f).
• The material needs to be at a cost point that the final product is reasonably priced.
• The material needs to be strong enough to handle 5-15 pounds of nodes.
• The material needs to be strong enough when mounted to a frame or other material to resist tearing, sagging, stretching or failing in high wind loads.
• And finally the material needs to be easy to machine on our CNC equipment.

It's a tall order and that's why we've yet to offer a "standard", non-custom mounting frame.  So, starting in February, we spent countless hours researching the tens of thousands of materials out there that could be a possible match for the magical material so we can bring products based on nodes to you.  As of March 8th, 2013, we have narrowed the field down to two companies that make very specialized plastics that meet our needs and we are working with them to produce and test the plastics that we hope will solve this problem.  We hope to have material in the April/May time frame after testing is completed and products shortly there after.

  

So, what do we plan to produce with this magical plastic?  Well that's a good question.  We know that lots of you out there want a method of creating a simple scrolling matrix screen like what is shown in the video above, so that's a pretty much no-brainier - we'll offer complete kits to build exactly that. 

We also plan to offer a mini-tree that also holds the nodes and is curved like a circular tree with the nodes "studded" through out - this would be offered as a dumb and smart mini-tree kit.

As is often the case, once we have a starter product, often customers are the source of some of the best ideas out there that we could never imagine.  So, if you have ideas for a product that incorporates RGB nodes, smart or dumb, feel free to email us or leave feedback below on the blog.

29-Mar-2013 - Update:  We have released the matrix panel here:  http://www.holidaycoro.com/Pixel-Matrix-Mounting-p/265.htm
 

Thanks,

David

HolidayCoro.com

A Technical Guide to (RGB) Wire Selection

With the advent of RGB lighting, there is a need to now carry power over wires that are different than those the community has used in the past for AC based power - namely SPT1 and SPT2 cords.  There are a variety of factors to consider when determining the type of wire you want to use for wiring RGB lighting - whether it is for smart/pixels or basic/dumb lighting:

• What is the amount of current required for the lights?
• What are the conditions the wire will be used in or with? (water, UV exposure, temperature range, how much flex will it be exposed to)
• Cost - not only for the wire itself but also the connectors used with it.
• Availability
• Easy of use (soldering, crimping, etc)

Current Carrying Capacity
First, lets start off with the most important function of any wire - it's ability to carry power.  The primary method of expressing power carrying ability of a wire is in amps.  But...you need to look at the voltage also.  For example, a wire rated to carry 1 amp of power (it doesn't matter is the power is DC or AC):

• 1 amp at 5 volts is 5 watts (Current  or amps * Voltage = Watts)
• 1 amp at 12 volts is 12 watts
• 1 amp at 120 volts 120 watts

So, as you can see, the actual power (watts) a wire can carry varies based on it's voltage (this is part of the reason some people choose 12v RGB lights over 5v pixel lights).  This is the same reason that a high tension power wire for interstate power transfer is in the millions of volts - if the same, 1" diameter cable was at 120 volts as opposed to millions, it would have to be massively larger (in diameter) to carry the same amount of power.  So - volts matter.

So, how to do you know how much current (or amps) a wire can handle?  Well, it's complicated and at the end of this article we will show you the "real world" method to determine what wire you need to use.  There are a number of factors that go into the calculation - including material type (tin, aluminum, copper), design (stranded vs solid wire), the diameter of the wire (gauge or in the US, AWG), the temperature the wire is exposed to, how many wires are bundled together and the insulating material.  You can start with charts, such as this one that give you a rough idea of how much a SINGLE wire can carry - remember that there are always two wires required for AC and DC wiring systems.  When you look at a chart you want to find the AWG (American Wire Gauge) or gauge.  How do you know what gauge the cable is?  Well, it's complicated also for the following reasons:

• Some vendors lie about the gauge of cable - this is very common for wiring sourced from China.  This is most common with wiring used in RGB lights. 
• The charts most often assume you are using solid copper - the best possible (short of gold and silver) conductor of power but often due to cost reasons, you may have tin wire plated in copper or aluminum wire plated in copper or some other variation, which renders the tables invalid.

So, we would always recommend looking closely at the cable and then measuring the cable diameter with a micrometer if you have them.  If you are using CAT5 cable or other cable purchased in the US on a roll, it's usually safe to trust the AWG listing.  So, now you have your wire gauge, say, 18 gauge or AWG.  So, we look up on the table for 18 AWG and find that it can handle 16 amps per wire for "chassis wiring" or 2.3 amps for "power transmission".  Those are some pretty big differences - why is that?  Again, the difference is due to the use of the cable, insulation and other factors. 
Conditions The Wire is Used In
There is no one perfect wire because the conditions that each project it is used in vary.  For example, one person may be permanently installing lighting onto their house and does not have intentions to remove it.  In that case, issues of UV exposure (which breaks down the insulation on the cable) and temperature exposure become important factors.  In this case you might also consider using a solid wire as opposed to a stranded wire as there will not be much future movement (and thus breakage) of the wire.  For installations in very cold regions, the insulation material is an important consideration as common insulation's are made from vinyl which doesn't function well in low temperatures.

So, when selecting cable, consider how the cable will be used and select a cable that meets those specific environmental issues.

Cable Cost
Of course a big factor in cable selection is cost.  The major cost in any cable is the wire, which is most often copper.  You don't want to select a cable that has conductors that are too thin and thus unable to carry sufficient current but you don't want to have overkill as this results in higher costs, heavier cable and often less flexibility.  Also keep in mind that cable cost is also a function of the quality of the insulation, so if you cheap out on a cable that doesn't have UV resistance and the cable has to be replaced after two seasons (along with all the associated soldering and connections), you may not have saved that much in the long term.

Availability
There is always a "right" cable for every need out there in the market, though often those "special" cables are so expensive that the "right" cable can't be used.  So after determining what gauge and insulation that is required, see what vendors carry that cable.  Often moving to a more "standard" cable, such as in the case of CAT5, results in many more vendors, greater competition and as a result, lower costs and higher availability.  So, don't rule out a cable that is close to the specs you need.

Ease of Use
This is one of the least considered factors in cable selection.  Easy of use includes a variety of issues, such as:

• Can the cable be purchased with pre-attached and tested connectors?  This is common with CAT5 and SPT cables which are standardized in wiring, color and design. 
• How easy is it to attach connectors?  Some wire can be very hard to work with due to the small gauge, multiple layers of insulation, strain reliefs or other factors.  Having to attach connectors to each cable, correctly (to prevent possible mis-wiring related damage) can often take a considerable period of time depending on the number of cables you need.
• What types of connectors can be used and do they meet your needs?  CAT5, for example, is ubiquitous and has many types of splitters / combiners, connectors (female / male, etc), waterproof and non-waterproof and more.  If your design calls for direct attached cable, such as screw terminals, is the wire strong enough to handle multiple screw downs on it?
• Connector costs is one of the biggest factors.  Usually in most systems you will have a connector based system for hooking up elements as they are, in the Holiday Lighting world, temporary in nature.  So, while a spool of cable might be cheap up front, if it requires expensive connectors, the overall cost of that connection method goes up and the connectors could be more expensive than the cable itself.  Be sure to think end-to-end on what you need from your connector - does it need to be waterproof or just water resistant?  Does it matter if the connection is water resistant at all (such as the case with SPT cord.)  Don't spend money on waterproofing connections that don't benefit from it.

The Real World Example
So, I've discussed a variety of the issues you should consider on how to select a wire or more specifically, a wiring "system" - how does this work in the real world?

Let's say that you want to hookup four flood lights to a single controller.  We will be using 100ft of cable between the power supply and each flood, resulting in a total of 500ft of cable between the start (power supply/controller) and the last flood.  What cable do you need and what factors would you consider?  They are:

• What is the power consumption of the flood?  Well, maybe the vendor says this is a "10 Watt" flood.  What does that mean?  Does the flood REALLY use a total of 10 Watts?  Well, don't trust your vendor - get our your multi-meter / VOM and actually measure the current draw of the single flood.  We have an article on our Knowledge Base that describes this process and here is a video that you can follow to learn how to do it:
  
  After you have the actual power consumption of a single flood, you can then determine the overall power draw.  So, lets say that the flood actually did consume 10 watts of power or .833 amps at 12 volts or a total of 2.5 amps at 12v DC for all four floods.
• Knowing the current consumption of the flood lights is just part of the equation - now you need to determine the power consumption of the cable itself.  Wait...what?  Yes, the wire itself uses the same power that is used to power your lights.  Think about a water hose - if you hook a few 100ft sections of water hose together, you'll end up with a pretty low water "pressure" (aka voltage) at the end of the hoses, compared to the pressure coming directly out of the faucet.  The same applies to your power supply - if you have a power supply that provides exactly 2.5 amps of power at 12v DC, you will need even more power just to replace the losses from the cable itself. 
• So, what do you do?  You have two options, you can choose to waste the power by using a thinner wire (wire diameter/thickness goes down as the gauge goes up) and just purchase a larger power supply to "over come" the losses in the cable (up to a point) OR you could purchase a lower gauge wire (thicker) that more efficiently carries the power and results in few losses.  This is why when you look at the wire gauge table, you will notice that there is a rating that references "ohms per ...".  Ohms is a measurement of the resistance that the cable puts up against the power flowing through it.  Of course as you can imagine, a smaller diameter cable will have a higher ohms per foot rating than a thicker, larger diameter cable. 
• So, what do you do with this ohms per whatever rating?  Let's take an 18 AWG wire - it has about 6.3 ohms of resistance per 1000 feet or 3.15 ohms per 500 feet - the amount of cable we will be using in this example.  So, we will put these values through an ohms law calculator and we come up with a number of .48 watts.  That means for each wire (we need two) we will loose .48 watts or about 1 watt total for the entire length of the cable pair.  As such, we would then need to add the 1 watt of power consumption from the cable to the total power consumption of the floods (40 watts) for a total of 41 watts. 
• So, say you have a larger power supply, maybe 100 watts and you wanted to reduce your wiring costs and use 24 gauge wire - could that work?  Let's see.  24 AWG looses about 25 ohms per 500 feet for a total loss (per pair of wires) of 5.7 watts, plus the 40 watts for the floods, for a total of 45.7 watts - so you are good to go - right?  Nope.  24 AWG can carry about .6 amps per wire, for a total of 1.2 amps of power carrying capacity per pair or about 14.4 watts total.  So, 24 AWG is out because it just isn't large enough. 
• But wait!  What if you were using CAT5 which ccommonly uses, eight, 24 gauge wires.  If you use two wires for the DMX signal, that leaves you with six, 24 AWG wires - is this enough?  The total current carry capacity of the six wires is 3.6 amps or 43 watts.  That's a little tight for four, 10 watt floods, so what losses does the cable have over 500 feet of cable?  Again, it has a loss of 5.7 watts per pair or about 17 watts total.  Add the 17 watts to the 40 watts and you have 57 watts which is "iffy" on a cable designed for about 43 watts at 500 feet. 
• So, what if you use it anyway?  Will something bad happen?  It depends.  The more overloaded the wire is, the higher its resistance will become, so where there is some head room, there isn't a free ride here.  What will occur is that you'll end up wasting power (about 15-20 watts) that you would otherwise have not wasted...but maybe the CAT5 cable was much cheaper than the purchase of the 18 gauge cable and that difference was much greater than the cost of the lost power (and the larger power supply to provide that power).
• Here is a simple test - take a VOM or multi-meter and measure the voltage at the power output from the power supply and then take a second measurement at the end of the cable, with all items turned on with full output (white for RGB lights) and compare the voltages.  Let's say you start off with 12.5v at the power supply, you may end up with 10v at the end.  Is that bad?  Well, it depends on your controller and lights.  You *might* notice a drop in light output on the 4th flood verses the 1st flood or you may not - it all depends.  Some controllers will have no problem running on that 10v, some others may not be able to handle that drop.  This is most common on pixel strings where you can see 50%+ voltage drops.

So, after all that you can see that there is no one single "best" answer as to what wire you should use or how many items you can put on a length of wire - there are a number of factors to consider and what we always recommend doing is using the math and ohms law as a starting point, building your design and then testing voltages and power consumption of the devices to determine if the cable is overloaded or has too large of a power drop.

Feel free to post additional questions on the feedback section.

Thanks,

David

HolidayCoro.com